New Forum
THIS FORUM IS NOW CLOSED/REPLACED DUE TO LACK OF TECHNICAL SUPPORT. YOU MAY STILL BROWSE AND READ POSTS, BUT YOU MAY NOT POST OR REPLY. YOUR CURRENT PASSWORD SHOULD WORK ON THE NEW SITE.

Please visit the new forum at New Fournier Forum

Important notice
Please remember that people from all over the world read and post on this forum, and that every country has its own rules, regulations and standards. This forum is based in the USA and so much of the information posted here is for the benefit of people who operate aircraft in the experimental/exhibition or experimental/racing categories. Advice given on this forum may be region specific. A person from Europe, for example, may make suggestions perfectly appropriate for a U.S reader, although not acceptable in his home country!

Please take this into account and carefully consult the authorities, standards and approved documentation where you fly.
Fournier Forums Upload picture | User Cp  |  Register  |  Members  |  Search  |  Help
    |- Fournier Aircraft > Maintenance Post New Topic   Post A Reply
RF 5b repair printer friendly version
next newest post | next oldest post
Author Messages
Jorgen
Unregistered

Posted Thursday, November 26, 2009 @ 05:01 PM  

Hi Guys,
Unfortunately I made a “repair project” out of perfectly serviceable Fournier RF 5 b “SE-UDI” this summer. After a bad ground-loop the tailwheel broke off, splitting the aft part of the fuselage. This is not a unique scenario, the unfortunate RF 5 “SE-TUD” (a repair project after a hedgeencounter during the last 15 years) once taxied past a tethered Lockheed Electra (4 engine turboprop) and suddenly found itself in a pretty significant crosswind which broke it´s tailwheel and Eugenio has heard of similar incidents. After intense therapeutic contacts with Eugenio I have readied myself for the repair process, which involves getting the fuselage ready for flipping upside-down. That means: removing fin, rudder, stabilizer, engine and wing. This is a brief description on how to do it, a mix of Eugenio´s advice (as always right on the spot and also Eugenio has really provided immense support, not only on practical matters) and my experience.

Removing the “tailfeathers” are pretty straightforward:
Stabilizer: remove trimcable, then disconnect the elevator which can be reached through an inspection hatch on the right side of the fuselage. Remove the hex bolt in front of the stab and the stabilizer comes off, sliding forward off the paired fittings.
Rudder: Disconnect the taillight (connected under the stabilizer on “UDI”) and slide the cable free through the holes. Remove the nuts fixing the rudder to the bellcrank (leave the cables in the fitting) and the upper hinge bolt- gently lift the rudder off.
Fin: Disconnect the strobelight and antenna cables (connected at the same spot under the stabilizer on “UDI”), slide them free through the holes. Now that the rudder is removed you can easily access the 4 M8 bolts from the rear and the bolt in the fitting on top of the fuselage. The rudder cables can be wired together, they don´t need to be removed.

Engine: Removing the engine is also “pretty straightforward”- drain the fuel, mark all the wires and cables with tape and pen, and take at least fifty digital photos (do that with everything you disconnect) to ensure you can reconstruct how things were connected. Remove the forward enginebolts- it´s best to leave the engine mount on the firewall so you have something to grab hold of and maybe mount a support to the fuselage in. Removing the cotterpins on the engine mount bolts is challenging but doable. I used a wire + strap and an engine hoist and found it surprisingly easy to remove the engine single handed. I built a wooden cart padded with Styrofoam to be able to move the engine around more easily.

Canopies: Cut the safety wire from the release handles, push the handle and slide the canopy out of the hinges.

Wingextensions: Disconnect the navigation light cables, remove one of the bolts in the aileron connection. The main locking sprint for the spar fitting is again surprisingly easy to remove, a cotterpin to remove and undo the nut, tap the sprint while unloading the tip- voíla!

Gimme 5b/ Jörgen

Jorgen
Unregistered

Posted Thursday, November 26, 2009 @ 05:35 PM  

The main wing: This is a substantial undertaking and there are a number of steps to complete in preparation. The floor of the rear cockpit consists of the wing center section, and all structures passing through that region has to be disconnected before you can separate the wing and the fuselage.

-Remove the “fillets” (wingrootfairings) and note which screw was seated were, the screws are probably changed and of different size.

-Remove the seats and the stick-base holsters.

-Remove the front and rear stick after disconnecting the PTT-cable (see pic below for the forward stick).

-Disconnect the rudder cables by undoing the turnbuckles on the underside, aft of the wing, visible now that the wing fairing is taken away. Wire the left/right cables together.

-Disconnect the pushrod for the front airbrake (pic above), you have to undo the axle with the insex bolt on the outside to be able to get insex nr 3 + M8 in place. Leave the handle, I also left the pushrod in place. Remove the handle for the rear airbrake, this can be done through the inspection hatch in the belly which you also need to remove. As with the wingfairings, note which screws goes where.

-Disconnect the elevator pushrod from the rear bellcrank at the same location, disconnect the same pushrod from the rear stickbase through the rear belly inspection hole. I couldn´t remove the rod, so I just “parked” it in the torque tube beside the forward elevator pushrod.

-Disconnect the front elevator pushrod from the forward stick and remove the stick, the pushrod can be left in the torque tube. Remove the stickbase from the torque tube, this is much easier than on the RF 4 since the 6 M4 nuts are on the outside of the tube and both the bolts and the nuts can be reached standing beside the cockpit or seated in the wheel well. On “UDI”, the casing aft of the stickbase is mounted with three more bolts easily reached as well. The bearing in the bulkhead holding the torque tube can be left in place, spray some WD-40 or similar so it slides more easily. I have to say that the previous owner (Borås gliding club) did a good job of greasing every moving part of the control system.

-Disconnect the cables from the navigation lights and stallwarning (there is none on “UDI”), it took me some time to find them, they come up from the main wing through a hole in the rear floor just aft of the front seatback- in the picture you can see the hole between the thermos flasks (gust filters for the instrument airpressure).

-As you can see, it´s a good idea to document with pictures BEFORE you start disconnecting cables, this is the rear side of the front backrest. Disconnect the pitot tube at the same location.

-Disconnect the front ruddercables from the rear rudderpedals, a sprint with a cotter pin. In the picture with the navlight cables you can (almost) see the sprints on teh rear rudder pedal, the outer sprint is for the front ruddercables) I pulled the cables forward, hoping that re-routing them will not be too difficult. Unfortunately you can´t leave a string in place, since the wing and fuselage split between those two walls.

-Remove the pitot probe under the left side of the wing to prevent damage. On “UDI”, there is a convenient plexi-window so you can se what you do to the pitot tube, which is easily disconnected from the probe after removing four screws.

-Remove the outriggers, hexbolt accessible through the hole in the wing uppersurface.

Gimme 5b/ Jörgen

[Edit by Jorgen on Friday, November 27, 2009 @ 02:51 PM]

Jorgen
Unregistered

Posted Thursday, November 26, 2009 @ 06:07 PM  

After this is done, you are ready for wing removal. Spray some WD 40 on the two main bolt nuts (24 mm) that can be seen at each side of the front seat. Do the same with the rear bolts (10 mm) accessible from the rear of the cockpit where you disconnected the rear ruddercables.

Support the wing with Styrofoam blocks so it rests with good stability, I would suggest outside of the skids (if you support under the skids it tends to be a bit wobbly- ask me how I know this). The manual calls for 8-10 people, we were 8 but that was a bit hectic at times. Two people at each wing root, at least one at each wingtip and at least two to hold the fuselage. Remove the rear bolts (If you remove the nuts, the bolts just slid forward and the wing was free, tending to drop the trailing edge) and when you start undoing the front nuts, the wing starts to move and you have to be on top of things. After the nuts and shims are gone, just raise the tail and gently wiggle the fuselage forward. “UDI” slid off quite easily with some slight protests from the torque tube. Assign at least three people to balance the fuselage until you put it on threstles or something similar.

In this picture you can see the front part of the wingcenter, the torque tube and the airbrake pushrod are still in place. I put the nuts back on the main bolts, but as all nyloc-nuts they should be changed at assembly.

This is the rear of the wing center. I tied the ruddercable turnbuckles together with a black string. The rudder cables are three parts: front pedal to rear pedal, rear pedal to turnbuckle (just aft of wing), turnbuckle to rudder. You can see the fittings at the sides that the M8 bolts go through with the nuts towards the rear. The hole in the middle is for the middle elevator pushrod which connects to a bellcrank just aft of the wing.

This is the bulkhead on the fuselage that mates to the wing, locking forward. In the middle is the hole for the torque tube (note that it´s oval to accomodate the oblique angle of the torque tube when you raise the tail, again good thinking by René), outside of that is the holes for the front part of the rudder cables. On the left side is the hole for the front airbrake pushrod, and outside of that is the holes for the main bolts.

…and this is what needs to be fixed….. piece of cake, huh?

Gimme 5b/ Jörgen

[Edit by Jorgen on Monday, November 30, 2009 @ 04:44 AM]

SteveBeaver
Unregistered

Posted Thursday, November 26, 2009 @ 07:03 PM  

Nice post Jorgen! - I'm sure people will be referring to it for a long time to come. - Thank you.

Steve

eugenio
Unregistered

Posted Friday, November 27, 2009 @ 02:42 PM  

Now the easy part of the game is done, and starts the more interesting and long one. You will ask yourself why you started this neverending job, why you choosed to fly instead of playing golf and when everything will be finished! Then after a few months/year, if you've been costant in the job, you will see the end and you will be very happy!

take care

Eugenio

Bob Grimstead
Unregistered

Posted Monday, November 30, 2009 @ 11:07 AM  

Hi Jorgen,

I am so pleased to hear that you have been able to start this repair. I was dismayed when I saw the damage in the summer.

You may be interested to know that, as a consequence of your experience, we at my airstrip have agreed to pay the farmer double rental for a wider and longer strip. That is infinitely preferable to having such a long and difficult repair project.

Very good luck to you, and along with the others, I look forward to hearing progress reports.

Yours, Bob

Post New Topic   Post A Reply Jump to:
Contact Us | cfiamerica.com | Privacy Policy All times are GMT -4 Hours.
Welcome to The Fournier Forum, Guest!  
Login
Username :
Password :
In order to fully utilize the abilities of this board, you are required to register as a member. Registration is free, and allows you to do lots of things including turning on or off certain features of this board. Register now!
Forum Rules & Description
Who Can Read The Forum? Any registered user or guest
Who Can Post New Topics? Any administrator or moderator
Who Can Post Replies? Any administrator or moderator
Who Can Edit Posts? Any original author
Tips for maintaining Fournier Motor gliders
Currently Active Users: 743
There are currently 0 members and 743 guests on the boards. | Most users ever online was 42535 on 04-07-2026 02:43 AM
Search This Forum
Search Keywords: Search From:
Powered by CuteCast v2.0 BETA 2
Copyright © 2001-2003 ArtsCore Studios