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dannparks
Unregistered

Posted Tuesday, September 29, 2009 @ 06:29 PM  

As usual, Eugenio correctly identified two of my main problems with the fiberglass --

1. The resin was too thick. I used West System and should have thinned it to get it to flow better.
2. I tried to do both sides of the vertical stabilizer at the same time. Dificult to hold it while working and difficult to really see the surface to make it smooth. It's nothing that a lot of sanding and elbow grease can't fix.

For the horizontal stabilizer, I will do just one quarter (i.e.: top-right) at a time. It seems to be quite easy to overlap the glass on previously glassed areas and sand the seam smooth. The lightweight glass is so thin, it hardly makes a bump in the overlap. The fuselage will have lots of seams like this.

--------------------

eugenio
Unregistered

Posted Wednesday, September 30, 2009 @ 01:21 PM  

Be careful! in the overlap you don't see the bump while you have the surface sanded and everything is dull, but when you paint it you will see it.
For that reason before overlapping you must scarf the first coat and when you finish you must fill the invisible step and smooth the surface. For that reason the overlap must always be in a place where you possibly don't see it, i.e. the lower part of the leading edge or under the fin. The same is with fabric.

You can make the stabilizer in two coats, first the bottom then the top, it is possible without becoming mad.

The fuselage can be done in two too, first one side then the other one. Remember to overlap only after cure of the first coat and subsequent scarfing.

Answering to Jorgen, the plasticizer is added to the poliurethane enamel (or the primer or the dope) in reason of 5 to 10% before using it. As far as I know it is a vegetal oil like banana oil or castor oil, but I never did the experiment since I used a Du Pont product.

Now I'm also in the process of preparing the Nitrate glue by myself with basic components. The glue is based essentially on Cellulose Nitrate + Acetone + Plasticizer and costs about 1/10 of the cheapest glue you can find on the market.

Eugenio

dannparks
Unregistered

Posted Saturday, October 31, 2009 @ 12:06 PM  

Rowena (if your still following this thread),
When you covered the fuselage for N1700 with fabric (not fiberglass) what was your process? How did you glue it down? When did you shrink it? What temperature? Where did you put the seams? Did you have any concave areas and how did you handle them? And what final finishing process?

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Sam M.
Unregistered

Posted Tuesday, November 3, 2009 @ 05:24 PM  

Rowena here... We removed the old cotton fabric using a heat gun. The heat softens the dope on the plywood enough to peel the fabric off without damage to the wood and with little trouble. It does take some time, but is an extremely good method. After all the fabric was removed, I cleaned any remaining dope residue with thinner. The bare wood was coated with Non-tautening Nitrate dope. It takes five or six spray coats to get a nice glossy base. Fabric (lightweight) is applied with a thinned version of the Non-tautening Nitrate. It is complicated to explain all the nuances of covering, but basically the fabric is taken off the roll, tacked along the edges, lightly ironed to remove wrinkles and then rubbed into the base nitrate with a thinned coat along the entire wood surface. It is extremely important to get a good bond to the wood with no air bubbles. We finished the fabric with Butyrate Dope colors. If you want specific information, you can call me. 805-525-7081. Good luck. Rowena
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