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dannparks
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Posted Sunday, July 17, 2011 @ 02:39 PM  

I thought I would start a post of my assembly process (hard to believe it after all these years). I put this in the "modifications" category because it will focus on the non-standard items.


Final "dress rehearsal" of engine, mufflers, wing, and canopy (untrimmed). This is the old cowl. New one will be fitted after the engine is hung.


A look at the fuselage paint job. Still need to do some small stripes on the vertical stabilizer -- or I might just leave the gap. Emblem on vertical stabilizer is not finalized. It will probably be a bit larger and of course in color.


Firewall preparations. New stainless steel firewall with fiberfrax backing and slightly enlarged opening for Diehl starter. New engine mounts. New gascolator in lower right. Alternator inverter in upper left, will be hit with cool air tube. I want to wire everything I can before the engine goes on so I can reach inside.

Inside cockpit: new throttle location with mixture where old throttle was. Rudder peddles moved 2" forward with control cable extensions. New fuel valve on right. Brake handle was re-chromed. Will need to remove some of this to install the tank.

Photos of battery installation next.

Of course the wing is a BIG job that I am really just starting, so final assemble won't really be till next year. Thanks again to everyone for all the helpful advice and inspiration.

--------------------
Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

Jorgen
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Posted Sunday, July 17, 2011 @ 07:04 PM  

Dann,
that looks absolutely fantastic, you will have a real gem when you're finished! I too like the gray numbers.

Regarding the canopy I don't know what frame you are considering, but I really love the carbonfiber frame on "SE-XST". There are no screws that can put cracks in the canopy, looks very nice and feels stable. Probably more job than fitting the canopy with screws to tubes, though. Eugenio had some alternative solution too that sounded smart, but I haven't seen close up pictures.

May the 4's be with you/ Jörgen

Collin
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Posted Monday, July 18, 2011 @ 12:05 PM  

Hi Dann,

First class!

Collin

jb92563
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Posted Monday, July 18, 2011 @ 04:42 PM  

Looks Great!

Hurry up and get the wing done too so you can fly her to a Fournier Gathering next year

I did not know you could get the fuel tank out, things are so tight in there I though the fuselage built around the tank.

[Edit by jb92563 on Monday, July 18, 2011 @ 04:43 PM]

--------------------
Ray
RF4D #4057 N-1771 Rectimo 1400cc
http://picasaweb.google.com/jb92563/FournierRF4D
http://www.touringmotorgliders.org

dannparks
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Posted Tuesday, August 9, 2011 @ 01:46 AM  

Some new pics.

Wiring runs going in -- a lot more wire than I originally thought. There is a ground stud through the firewall and a power stud that is isolated through the firewall. I used studs because I needed to tap into the lines for cockpit power and ground, and a stud seemed a good place to do it.

The battery and master relay are behind the seat. It is an Odyssey PC680 exactly like in the RV. Probably a bit of an overkill, but it should provide plenty of power for Comm and Txponder when the engine is off or idling. It also has a great mounting kit from Vans.

Engine hanging and hook-up next. (...and still working on the wing)


[Edit by dannparks on Tuesday, August 9, 2011 @ 01:54 AM]

--------------------
Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

SteveBeaver
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Posted Tuesday, August 9, 2011 @ 06:34 AM    YIM

What a great looking installation Dan!

I know you have an engine driven charging system, so these remarks do not apply to you, but it seems an opportune time to remind people about battery relays.

A relay is used for two purposes: To place the point at which the battery is disconnected from the system as close to the battery as possible, and to allow the switching of a very large current from a small, light weight switch. The problem is, the type of relay shown here consumes more power than all the equipment you could possibly cram into a Fournier.

If you don't have an engine driven electrical system, please don't use a relay like this. My radio and transponder take about 0.7 amps (when not transmitting) The relay takes close to 1.5 amps. The use of a relay drops my battery time by 2/3!

As an alternative, consider just using a suitably rated DC switch, or one of the European LUN series relays that draw to only 0.1 amps when closed.

Steve

jb92563
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Posted Tuesday, August 9, 2011 @ 10:06 AM  

This topic of battery hookup brings up a point I have been wondering about.

Since the battery in the RF4D is not overly large, although the Odessy 680 may be, I have noticed that when I crank the engine all the panel electrics get a voltage drop that causes then to shut down.

I turn my radio and transponder off while cranking, but the engine monitor reboots as the voltage drops below that it needs to keep running.

Is there a way to isolate the battery and electronics so the panel does not get the big voltage drop on cranking?

I did read that in some installations the panel has its own battery power supply, or in some cases a big capacitor is used to smooth out the voltage fluctuations.

Any ideas? Maybe I just need a bigger battery. I will try an Odessy 525 I have in the garage and see if that makes a difference.

I suppose the simplest solution is to have a power switch/breaker for the panel and just use it after the engine has finished cranking.

--------------------
Ray
RF4D #4057 N-1771 Rectimo 1400cc
http://picasaweb.google.com/jb92563/FournierRF4D
http://www.touringmotorgliders.org

SteveBeaver
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Posted Tuesday, August 9, 2011 @ 12:59 PM    YIM

Ray,

The only way to do that is to provide a second, small battery for the monitor, then feed power from it, and from the main batter through diodes so that whichever has the most juice will power it. I can provide ordering details if you like.y

Steve

dannparks
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Posted Tuesday, August 9, 2011 @ 01:15 PM  

A simple solution would be to put a switch (or switches) to turn off power to the instruments and avionics during cranking. It should be an easy thing to add.

Dann

--------------------
Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

Jorgen
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Posted Tuesday, August 9, 2011 @ 04:42 PM  

Dann,
that RF 4 interior looks really nice- it also looks just like the interior of the LS-3/17 glider I had a half share in for 10 pleasant years which made me associate that paint scheme with excellent quality. Please keep keeping us updated!

Regarding electrickery I start the engine first, then flip the switches. I always turn the radio off before killing the engine or during airstarts. I have battery 1 + battery 2 switches and master switch, but I have to check where they are connected and if there is a relay installed.

May the 4's be with you/ Jörgen

dannparks
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Posted Wednesday, August 17, 2011 @ 10:10 PM  

I installed the engine last week and started working on the baffles. The fuel and control systems are very simple and straight-forward (the fuel hose will get firesleeve over it). I'm anxious to find out if this is all going to work as planned.


Still working on wiring the panel. I decided to install a banan-o-meter, because, well, Collin has one in his RF5, so it must be cool!

Wings are varnished and I'll start gluing and fabric this weekend. Just trying to keep up with Bob Brock...

--------------------
Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

Jorgen
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Posted Thursday, August 18, 2011 @ 06:52 AM  

Dann,
that is an absolute work of art! Wonderful pictures- so that is what an engine looks like without all the dirt? Regarding the fire sleeve hose, that was one of the big issues within the EASA-rule implementation: all (especially fuel) hoses needs documentation too, dates stamped on, changed every 5 years etc.

As I understand it the Bananometer is the only gauge that can measure the curvature of space thereby detecting nearby disruptions in the space-time continuum. It takes the heightened awareness of someone living in a part time Zoo like Collin to create a Fournieruturistic device like that.

May the 4's be with you/ Jörgen

jb92563
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Posted Thursday, August 18, 2011 @ 04:22 PM  

Wow, great progress Dan, you are cruising ahead nicely.

Just a word about the Aerocarb and fuel hoses.

In my Aerocarb install fire sleeves/insulation are necessary on all the fuel hoses and the firewall fuel filter to avoid vaporization in the fuel.

With the original carb its not as critical since there is a bowl to capture and release vapor bubbles, but with the Aerocarb you will feel
the engine respond to vapor bubbles going through the fuel system.

if you insulate well you will not have any issues.

Also, make sure the mixture cable assembly has enough range to completely cut off the fuel flow, as this is how you can reliably
start and stop the engine without flooding, as the mixture valve will effectly reduce fuel flow to zero.

You only take it to rich when initially starting the engine after opening the fuel shutoff.

Did you add a fuel pump with return fuel bleed line to the tank?
I did not find it necessary, but if you do find yourself with vapor issues it will quickly clear the bubbles, plus it may help when doing aerobatics.

--------------------
Ray
RF4D #4057 N-1771 Rectimo 1400cc
http://picasaweb.google.com/jb92563/FournierRF4D
http://www.touringmotorgliders.org

dannparks
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Posted Wednesday, August 31, 2011 @ 12:31 PM  

I'm not using a fuel pump at this point. I'm hoping that a simple gravity-feed with 3/8" hoses will work. I can put a pump inside the fuselage later if necessary. Thanks for the operational advice on the Aerocarb. I have been following your experience with it very closely, and I will test it throughly on the ground before any flying.

--------------------
Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

Bob Brock
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Posted Thursday, September 1, 2011 @ 11:04 PM  

Wow!! I love your work... and I plan to use as many of your ideas as I can. Like other RF-4 owners, you are extremely generous with sharing your solutions. If my fuselage paint scheme looks like yours it is (as you know) because you were kind enough to make full size drawings for me. No doubt it will be great fun to see other RF-4's and Minden next year. And, it will be great fun to fly together. Thanks for all your fine work... you set a very high standard. Bob Brock
Bob Brock
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Posted Wednesday, October 19, 2011 @ 07:17 PM  

Dann:
What kind of paint did you use inside the cockpit... the dark gray with white flecks? Does it come in other colors? It looks great and needless to say, I may try to do something similar. Hope you know that imitation is the highest compliment!!
Thanks.... Bob
jb92563
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Posted Thursday, October 20, 2011 @ 10:30 AM  

Dan I noticed your spinner devoid oaint and then considered my own spinner with its paint starting to flake off.

Like Bob B. I think I'll copy your good idea, and get out my nuvite aluminum polish and make the spinner glisten
like chrome.

I may also go two tone bare aluminum as I did with my HP-11 glider wing, polishing one part to a chrome like gleam and leaving other
parts the natural dull tone, thereby creating a two tone finish.

The reason for the two tone in my case will be to visually hide a small dent near the tip of my spinner.

--------------------
Ray
RF4D #4057 N-1771 Rectimo 1400cc
http://picasaweb.google.com/jb92563/FournierRF4D
http://www.touringmotorgliders.org

dannparks
Sergeant Major

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Posted Friday, October 21, 2011 @ 12:54 PM  

The grey speckled paint is called Zolatone. It is an industrial coating used on machinery and boats. Its really easy to apply with a gun with a large nozzle. The color I used is called Lilith Charcoal. It comes in a lot of other colors. www.zolatoneaim.com. Its available at professional auto paint stores or online.

I like the idea of a polished spinner. I think mine might be too pitted to polish, though. But I think Ill try it.

Can't wait to see your paint job in person, Bob.

--------------------
Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

dannparks
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Posted Monday, September 17, 2012 @ 03:57 PM  

Well it's all together in one piece, although not ready to fly yet.

Still working on control system and cockpit stuff. And paperwork.

I made a little dolly to help move it sideways into the hangar. And a similar smaller dolly on the rear wheel.

More pictures when it gets closer to flying.

--------------------
Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

Jorgen
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Posted Wednesday, September 19, 2012 @ 11:24 AM  

Dann,
that looks like pure magic. I need to make a pilgrimage to Battle Ground and kneel be4 that altar.

On a side note I met a German iceboating friend here in Sweden who told me about his involvment in a german RF 5 flying XC over the Atlantic East to West. I hope to get more details later this week.

May the 4's be with you/ Jörgen

dannparks
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Posted Saturday, September 22, 2012 @ 03:36 PM  

The weight came in at 629 lbs. A bit heavy, but I guess not too bad considering the generator, starter, large battery, radio, transponder, and instruments. I will probably redesign the mufflers to make them shorter and a bit lighter. They stick out more than I thought they would and require too much support. I think the new system will use SupperTrapp discs on the endcaps.

--------------------
Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

Antti
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Posted Thursday, September 27, 2012 @ 04:27 AM  

Beauty! Great job, indeed!

--------------------
***** RF4D OH-370 - RF4D OH-371 - RF5 0H-386 *****

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