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Mystery parts (first in a series) printer friendly version
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dannparks
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Posted Monday, July 4, 2011 @ 06:56 PM  

No mystery here. These are the shields that go on either side of the gear casting, and under the fiberglass gear cover.

The question is, how necessary are they? Do they just help stop junk from falling into the mechanism? Do they also stop air drafts? Is there another important function?

I will need to disassemble the torque tube on the gear to put them in. Is it worth it? It looks like they were glued on with something. Is there a preferred adhesive?

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Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

jb92563
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Posted Tuesday, July 5, 2011 @ 01:28 PM  

I have my vertical and horizontal tail at home still and can snap some photos of all the hardware tonight.

Figure 8 fitting is as Bob said, joins the elevator halves together.

The other bellcrank thing is just behind the seat in the fuselage and is for the elevator.

The hardware with the blue tape looks like an elevator tube support/guide.

I might get a chance to snap pictures of that area next weekend.

These could be backing plates for the seat belt shoulder strap fittings. What size is the grid background squares?

[Edit by jb92563 on Tuesday, July 5, 2011 @ 01:33 PM]

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Ray
RF4D #4057 N-1771 Rectimo 1400cc
http://picasaweb.google.com/jb92563/FournierRF4D
http://www.touringmotorgliders.org

dannparks
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Posted Wednesday, July 6, 2011 @ 00:29 AM  

I measured the turnbuckle parts (should have done it earlier) and discovered that they are 1/4"-28 threads and 1/4" holes, so I guess they aren't original Fournier parts after all. The two backing-plate things are exactly 5/8" wide and I suspect aren't original Fournier parts either. Everything else has been accounted for and figured out.

Thanks everyone for your help. I hope this was fun.

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Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Wednesday, July 6, 2011 @ 11:23 AM  

Hi Dann,

I think it is very important to have those thin Al shields either side of your wheel mechanism, to stop draughts (drafts). And of course they are impossible to fit after the airplane is assembled.

Because the whole cockpit canopy and mid-span area is in an area of very low pressure (lift), you will get strong, hot and smelly draughts sucked up from around the wheel mechanism if you do not fit those shields.
Not only does it make your cockpit hot and smelly from the exit engine cooling air, but it seriously reduces the efficiency of your airplane and reduces lift/increases drag.

I forgot to do so on one of mine, and had to make up a less-good shield and seal the whole area with silicone sealant -- a bear of a job!

Yours, Bob

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

dannparks
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Posted Saturday, July 30, 2011 @ 02:17 AM  

OK, the mystery here is about assembly. Judging by the pictures I've seen, I think most RF4D wings are removed by taking the front casting off the large tube and leaving the large tube in the wing. This seems to have been disassembled from the back -- which might actually be easier to reassemble because the bolts are a bit easier to access.

The problem is the bearings. I don't know why the large bearings were removed from their mounting rings (I don't remember doing it, but I might have).

In any case, I cannot get the bearings to fit back into the mounting rings. They are an incredibly tight fit and I can't even get them started going together. Is there a special press jig or something used to put these back together? I know how to assemble the thing once I can get the bearings back into the rings.

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Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

Markku
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Posted Sunday, July 31, 2011 @ 05:45 AM  

Hi Dann
The bearings have a spherical outer form, in the bearing mounting ring you will find a groove, put the bearing 90deg rotated in the groove location, and then twist the bearing again 90deg
dannparks
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Posted Sunday, July 31, 2011 @ 11:34 AM  

Brilliant! You guys are amazing! Thanks Markku, they popped right in!

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Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

dannparks
Sergeant Major

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Posted Wednesday, August 3, 2011 @ 11:35 PM  

The mystery part here is the fitting that grips the brake cable to the lever. It seems to be missing. What does it look like? Does someone have an extra one of these I could buy, or know of a source? Is it a custom part or from a mo-ped or something?

Thanks for any assistance.

--------------------
Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Thursday, August 4, 2011 @ 04:22 AM  

Hiya Dann,

At last, an easy one!

There's an inverted, approximately U-shaped yoke, with identical holes at its open ends, that fits around a simple solderless nipple on the cable.
A cotter/clevis pin goes through those holes and the hole in the end of the brake arm, and that's secured with a washer and a split pin (good ol' Renι -- he always uses a clevis/cotter pin & spit pin, presumably for lightness, where he can).

I hope this photo helps.

Yours, Bob


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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Donald
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Posted Thursday, August 4, 2011 @ 06:44 AM  

Pretty much the same as mine. The solderless nipple Bob mentions I last got from a bike shop. It's a steel dowel with a hex at one end and a screw in the other. It's drilled across the middle. The cable goes through the drillin and the screw pinches it in place, The hex at the end is to react the tightening of the screw. There's a photo on my picacsa page which is really to show the tyre (tire) but you can make out the brake connection too. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Z-JCQiGdf1g-WP_0AThHSQ?feat=directlink

[Edit by Donald on Thursday, August 4, 2011 @ 07:21 AM]

Jorgen
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Posted Thursday, August 4, 2011 @ 04:03 PM  

Yesyes,
my setup isn't original, I just have a bolt that fits in the lever arm hole, drilled to allow the brakewire to pass and two nuts to lock it. It has worked fine for four years, but the originalsettup looks perhaps more trustworthy. Maybe something to consider for simplicity if you have a bolt and drill of the correct size.

May the 4's be with you/ Jφrgen

dannparks
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Posted Thursday, August 4, 2011 @ 06:44 PM  

Thanks for the photos. At least I know what I am trying to create. If I can't find one, it looks easy enough to make. I can certainly make the bolt version, but I bet I can find the clevis somewhere.

--------------------
Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

Donald
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Posted Friday, August 5, 2011 @ 02:18 AM  

It wouldn't take much to knock up a strip shackle, and if you get the part I spoke of from a bike shop you can also get soft, blind ferrules to crimp over the cable end to stop it fraying disgracefully like Bob's.
Bob Grimstead
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Posted Friday, August 5, 2011 @ 06:54 AM  

Yep, or a motorcycle shop, which is where I got my solderless nipple.

...and PS, that 'disgracefully' frayed and grass-adorned cable is actually on Paul's G-BXLN. I photographed his wheel, amongst other things, for that Buyers' Guide article I wrote a few years back. To prevent your cable from fraying, just heat the end up and run solder over it before slipping it into the solderless nipple.

My own brake cables are actually Jabiru Teleflex control cables (stripped from a crashed example). Their inner cables are spirally wrapped with fine stainless steel strip, and then coated with Teflon. The outers are also Teflon-coated, so there is virtually no friction in the system and little chance of fraying.

I think I've mentioned all this somewhere else on the forum, but that, plus getting the geometry of the rocking arm correct means the brake works extremely well. It will hold the airplane against full power, and even slightly lifts the tail if you yank it hard on landing!

Yours, Bob

--------------------
Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

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