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Bob Grimstead
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Posted Sunday, May 24, 2015 @ 05:47 AM  

For reasons known only to themselves, they ripped off my firewall, so I've had to make a new one.

The original was a sandwich of asbestos between two thin sheets of aluminium. My replacement will use Fibrefrax instead of asbestos. I had previously bought a large sheet of aluminium and the required Fibrefrax, but inevitably this disappeared from the workshop along with so many other things, so I ordered more Fibrefrax.

In Australia I had an old sheet of .020-inch 2024-T3 Alclad that was just big enough for one skin, and I had another thin sheet of softer aluminium, so I brought them both to England in my suitcase.

I had been putting off this job because I don't have any metal-working skills. My only knowledge was a one term evening school course at the local college more than thirty years ago.

I figured cutting out the sheets and drilling the holes should be fairly straightforward. It was bending the flanges around the outer sheet that was causing me concern. I tried googling flanging on YouTube but could only find adverts for DVDs on flanging, and then they all seemed to use pneumatic or hydraulic machine tools.

I clearly needed to clamp the sheets against the firewall so that they wouldn't buckle while the flange was being bent, so I bought a three-quarter inch sheet of MDF. Drilling four 5mm bolt holes for the four outermost engine mount bolts, I was able to draw around the fuselage outline on the MDF and then cut out the shape with my late grandad's ancient electric jigsaw (which I had never used before).

Then it was fairly straightforward to clamp the MDF in place over each of the aluminium sheets in turn and mark them out.

Because I was concerned about flanging the 2024-T3, I decided to cut both sheets oversize and practice by flanging the softer piece before going on to the harder metal. While the sheets were clamped in place, I used the old firewall hammered flat as a template to drill the many smaller holes. The bigger holes I marked out with pen from inside the fuselage, because I thought that would be more accurate.

Now I should explain something that may mystify my American friends. In America it seems that 'hand tools' are electrical tools that are not bolted to the bench. In Britain the term 'hand tools' means tools which do not have electricity for power. I come from a generation which routinely used hand tools all our lives, and have only recently been converted over to electric power tools.

So I cut out the first aluminium sheet using tinsnips before I realised that I could use a metal-cutting blade in the jigsaw to do the job more quickly, and frankly more accurately. Once I got the hang of drilling three small holes in the right place to allow its blade access, I was even able to cut out the central magneto housing holes using it too.

Then I clamped the softer sheet of aluminium in place and practiced flanging around the top of that. That seemed to go okay, so I cut off the excess around the edges of that sheet, and then substituted the harder sheet and flanged that.

I started off using a new rubber headed mallet, but had to transition to first one, and then two simultaneous steel hammers, the faces of which I first cleaned up with Emery paper. I even had to tweak the wrinkles here & there with two pairs of needle-nosed pliers.

As I had expected it was much more difficult to get a completely flat flange in the 2024-T3 -- which I never did achieve, although I think the end result is probably acceptable. It will have to be because I don't have any more aluminium and I'm not going to spend any more time on this.

Then I clamped both sheets in place together and drilled the larger holes with Irving unibits, opening them out where necessary with a rotary file.
My final task at the end of day one was to de-burr everything. Now I'm getting the hang of this electricity malarkey, I did this with a Dremel.

My problem today is getting off the dried and cracked old white protective sheet from the 2024-T3. I had assumed that either acetone or MEK would dissolve it, because they seem to dissolve most things, but they won't touch it.
I've also tried the heat gun unsuccessfully.
I could probably scrape it off with an old knife or something, but I am reluctant to put gouges and scratches into my nice new firewall.

Can anybody help me by telling me what might dissolve this protective pl...

[Edit by Bob Grimstead on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 @ 10:00 AM]

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Donald
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Posted Sunday, May 24, 2015 @ 07:01 AM  

Bob, what a bunch of new skills you're acquiring.

A few minutes with google turned up this page http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=164727 which appears to describe what you're having to deal with, and possibly why you're having to deal with it. The suggestion there is that you need an alkaline paint stripper, but what is that and where can you get it? I have no idea but a google search for "alkaline stripper UK" turns up some possibilities for investigation. Whether any of these chemicals might be suitable for your particular need you would have to determine for yourself.

Digging a little deeper online it looks possible that your plastic coating might (now) be akin to some powder coatings so if there is a powder coating business near you it might be useful to ask them.

Hope this helps.

Donald

[Edit by Donald on Sunday, May 24, 2015 @ 07:02 AM]

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Sunday, May 24, 2015 @ 07:41 AM  

Donald you're a star -- as always!

In the same way that I never think of using an electric tool until I've knackered myself with hand tools, I never think of using Google until all other avenues have been exhausted. Even then I always seem to ask the wrong question so that I don't get the answer I want.

Having exhausted every solvent in my fairly extensive armoury I had been coming round to the conclusion myself that I would need paint stripper. Ordinary Nitromoors is alkaline, so I'll get Karen to pop down to the shops this afternoon for some.

Meanwhile I've been cutting out the fibrefrax with scissors and I'm ready to glue that into place with the rear of the two layers of aluminium.

Onwards and eventually upwards.

Thank you again Donald.

Yours, Bob

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Donald
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Posted Sunday, May 24, 2015 @ 10:02 AM  

Hi Bob, me again.

Nitromors is horrible stuff to use and you will test on an offcut first, won't you?

[Edit by Donald on Sunday, May 24, 2015 @ 10:42 AM]

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Sunday, May 24, 2015 @ 10:19 AM  

Yes and No Donald,

I'm mister unskilled & impatient, so I've slopped half the tin over the back face of the front skin.
We'll soon see if it works.

As you say, it's nasty stuff, although, like so many things, 21st Century Nitromoors won't take your skin off like the good old stuff used to.

I'm rather amused that they've now dyed it green -- presumably as a sop to the greenies!


[Edit by Bob Grimstead on Monday, May 25, 2015 @ 07:24 AM]

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Donald
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Posted Sunday, May 24, 2015 @ 10:43 AM  

Editing while you posted so I'l split the edit off into a new post.

Just in case this all goes horribly wrong and you have to remake it can I suggest that once you have the holes marked and cut out you reverse the sheet on the MDF former and slap the material over the MDF rather than over your fuselage. Advantages? You don't risk damaging the fuselage and you can easily work right back off the edge of the former. In addition, a bevel planed/sanded on the edge of the MDF, I'm guessing maybe about 5° might be enough, would let you slap the aluminium slightly beyond 90° relying on springback to achieve the final 90°. A small radius on the edge that would be the inside of the bend, equal to roughly the 2024 thickness would be good and you could also file little recesses into the curved edges into which to form 'V' dimples to shrink the outer edge and flatten the firewall.

Even if you don't have to remake the piece, and I'm hoping you don't, you can probably still improve the finished piece by doing some of this.

I was going to suggest you look into annealing but 2024 needs to be treated under very highly controlled conditions, so probably not practical.

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Sunday, May 24, 2015 @ 10:47 AM  

Thanks again Donald. I'd forgotten to mention that is exactly what I did yesterday.

To my delight when I reversed the MDF the firewall was exactly symmetrical to within a millimetre, which is a much closer tolerance than I can work to, so everything worked really well the other way around.

Of course the fuselage sides are not at right angles to the firewall, it tapers on all four sides, so in the end the chamfer I cut on the MDF was a bit too much, and I had to tweak the flange back out a little bit.

I'm now using the MDF to apply pressure to the rear sheet of aluminium, on which I've used Evo Stick to glue it to the firewall.

Got to get a wiggle on because I want to watch the Monaco Grand Prix. (2015 for later viewers)

:-))

[Edit by Bob Grimstead on Sunday, May 24, 2015 @ 11:10 AM]

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Sunday, May 24, 2015 @ 12:23 PM  

This is the first (rearmost) sheet glued in place:

Then I slapped on the Fibrefrax:

...and thoroughly clamped it in place for the glue to set overnight:

Meanwhile, a whole 750ml (quart) £17++ container of the useless modern Nitromoors didn't get off more than half the protective stuff n the back of the front sheet, so I'll have to buy at least two more cans tomorrow:

Meanwhile, I've been at this today since 7am, so now I have lit the fire, poured myself a small Famous Grouse, and am looking forward to watching Daniel, Lewis and Jenson grapple with the intricacies of the Monte Carlo track.
The others I'm just not interested in.

Cheers!

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Jorgen
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Posted Sunday, May 24, 2015 @ 05:13 PM  

Bob,
thanks for sharing your ordeals- that I actually find quite inspiring. As SE-XST (former G-AVNX) former owner James Hallam puts it: "-Sent to try us!"

May the 4s be with you/ Jörgen

dannparks
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Posted Sunday, May 24, 2015 @ 07:51 PM  

Hi Bob,

You might want to consider trimming out the Fiberfrax under the engine mounts and putting in some solid shims. This way the compressible Frax-stuff isn't being squeezed by the mount bolts. I did this when I replaced my firewall and felt more confident that the engine mount bolt torque would be correct and not loosen as the Frax compressed over time. Maybe nit-picking, but just a suggestion.

--------------------
Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Monday, May 25, 2015 @ 04:36 AM  

That is an extremely good idea Dann, and very aposite.

I shall do exactly that this morning.

Thank you very much for your timely suggestion.

Yours, Bob

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Monday, May 25, 2015 @ 06:48 AM  

While the second tin of Nitromoors goes to work on the front face of the outer firewall, I have found some stainless AN 960C – 10 washers that should do the job admirably.

The Fibrefrax is soft and easy to cut, so I quickly made a 7/16" punch from a short length of half inch 4130 that I happened to have from an old job on the Champ.

With a Little dab of contact adhesive on the back of each washer, and using an engine mount bolt to centre them, they were soon all in place.

Thank you all for your input. It has been unfailingly helpful, as always.

Yours, Bob

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Monday, May 25, 2015 @ 07:19 AM  

I've just remembered that stainless steel corrodes aluminium, so I've whipped off those washers and smeared them on both sides with Duralac chromate paste.

Obviously the front firewall sheet will be primed and painted on both sides, but I reckon it's best to be safe.

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

dannparks
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Posted Monday, May 25, 2015 @ 11:47 AM  

And one other thing to check... The shims/washers might add a tiny bit of thickness to the whole thing, so it would be good to test-fit the bolt length to be sure the castle nut/cotter pin arrangement (if you're using that) will still fit at the proper torque. Just one of those things it's good to know. Because I changed the entire mount system, I replaced my bolts, so I don't know if the old ones would fit with a shim -- but they probably will.

--------------------
Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Wednesday, June 10, 2015 @ 09:58 AM  

Thanks Dann, I did that, and it all worked well:

So in goes the engine...

...and on go the propeller & spinner, ready to fit Eugenio's new cowlings...


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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Jorgen
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Posted Thursday, June 11, 2015 @ 03:09 AM  

Congratulations on your progress Bob,
so glad to see what you've achieved! And what a fabulous new paint job- you sneaked away doing that without telling us, eeh? Thanks for sharing!

May the 4's be with you/ Jörgen

[Edit by Jorgen on Thursday, June 11, 2015 @ 03:10 AM]

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Thursday, June 11, 2015 @ 05:25 AM  

I should have explained about the trim.

That is all red Oratex fabric, traced and cut to shape on the kitchen table, and then glued into place. Here I am ironing it on.

Karen painted the registration using red Hammerite Smooth, a great British paint that sticks to anything, from bare steel, rusty steel and fabric to concrete (for years my garage floor was painted with it). It comes in pots, so you can brush it on, or in aerosol cans.
Everything in & on Wagon is now painted with Hammerite Smooth in red, white or silver, except the instrument panel which uses Hammerite Satin black.
It just so happens that Hammerite's red pigment is a very close match to Oratex's Fokker Red.

Yours, Bob

[Edit by Bob Grimstead on Thursday, June 11, 2015 @ 05:31 AM]

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Markku
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Posted Thursday, June 11, 2015 @ 08:27 AM  

Hi Bob
The race goes tough, I will have the inspection next week
Bob Grimstead
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Posted Thursday, June 11, 2015 @ 05:25 PM  

I think this race will be very close Markku.

My aeroplane has been inspected twice -- by the LAA and a CAA Surveyor.

It has been weighed -- 258kg basic, and 272kg with optional accessories (radio, turn&slip, smoke pods, crash-resistant cushions, aux fuel system etc).

While I wait for the paperwork to be processed I shall be priming and painting the new cowlings.

I may be flying next week (weather permitting) but more likely the following week.

Good luck, and I hope that you beat me into the air Markku. Yours, Bob

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Donald
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Posted Friday, June 12, 2015 @ 02:09 PM  

Hi Bob,

My, you've been busy, and such skills! Ironing, even! Nice job on the shirt.

I'm astonished at your rate of progress and hope you do indeed manage the final hurdles in short order.

Donald

D. Porter
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Posted Sunday, June 14, 2015 @ 07:48 PM  

Quote:
Originally posted by Bob Grimstead
It has been weighed -- 258kg basic, and 272kg with optional accessories (radio, turn&slip, smoke pods, crash-resistant cushions, aux fuel system etc).

Hi Bob,

Can you share any details on the crash-resistant cushions and aux fuel system?

I'm guessing the cushions are made from Backsaver Foam? http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/backsaverfoam.php?clickkey=64411

Don

--------------------
Don
RF4D #4054 N1700F Rectimo 1400cc

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Monday, June 15, 2015 @ 05:23 AM  

Yes Don, the cushions are from Aircraft Spruce.
The trade name has changed over the years, but they're Temperfoam or Conforfoam etc... conformal foam as used in the Space Shuttle and by Oregon Aero.
I have a two-inch backsaver behind me and a three-inch sandwich of three different grades as a seat squab.
This stuff is heavy, but vital if you have a hard impact.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/conForFoan.php

The aux fuel system is based on the Fournier drawings, but with a flexible twelve litre bladder on the parcel shelf, filling into the banjo under the main tank by gravity.
I have not yet flight tested it, but photos of the initial work are here:

http://sbeaver.com/cgi-bin/fournier/cutecast.pl?session=A6aCyfN2ebeuAbsi6CiHNdYr34&forum=11&thread=1019&page=2

Yours, Bob

[Edit by Bob Grimstead on Monday, June 15, 2015 @ 05:31 AM]

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

dannparks
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Posted Monday, June 15, 2015 @ 12:40 PM  

Hi Don,

I had my seats made by Oregon Aero (they're 10 minutes away) using Temperfoam and they are super comfortable. Both back and bottom are thinner than Bob's (so I can fit in), so impact absorption is reduced, but that's what it is. They measured the plane and cut the pattern custom. They may have kept the notes - but I can bring it over and they can measure it again if you're interested in a seat by them. It's seems a bit pricey at first, but IMHO after the wings and engine, the seat is the most important thing in the plane.

--------------------
Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Monday, April 25, 2016 @ 06:51 AM  

Now that my Fournier is completely serviceable, I've had plenty of aerobatic practice and I've got lots of display bookings, I thought it was probably about time I replaced the scuzzy old, cracked, over-filled and oft-repaired engine cowlings with those nice new ones that Eugenio made for me several years ago.

Unfortunately when I came to look at them closely I discovered that, although they are wonderfully light and flexible, the outer layer of fiberglass cloth had not been properly wetted with resin, so virtually every weave and weft showed up as a dimple in the outer surface. On top of that (as would be expected) there were lots and lots of pinholes.

I discovered that Fat Boy lightweight flexible epoxy car body filler was perfect for filling in the smaller imperfections, and easy to use because it is very fine for filling pinholes and the fabric weave.

Nevertheless, I've had to spend days and days in dreary, mindless, repetitive, filling and sanding, filling and sanding, priming, filling and sanding to get anything like a flat, level finish.

I'm no good at paint spraying, so I bought some sweet little cans in my local hardware store. A couple of coats of plastic primer and she's good to go!

I will top-coat them red when I can find some cheap paint of the right sort of shade.

[Edit by Bob Grimstead on Thursday, April 28, 2016 @ 02:36 PM]

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Donald
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Posted Tuesday, April 26, 2016 @ 01:27 AM  

Hi Bob,

Polyfilla? Household emulsion? You're reaching into the unknown there, are you not? I'm amazed the Polyfilla even stuck to the glass.
Mind you, the technology of stuff moves on. Last year, I think, the LAA reported on a Druine Turbulent that had been finished with masonry paint!

Now, had you asked, I have a set of original, never been used, Fournier cowls, complete in red gel coat.

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Tuesday, April 26, 2016 @ 04:41 PM  

Well, it seems to do the job OK Donald, and I don't much fly in the rain, so it should be OK.

I shall use red Hammerite Smooth as a topcoat when I am satisfied with the finish.

I am looking forward to our visit to René for his birthday, and then a nice long French holiday afterwards.

Yours, Bob

[Edit by Bob Grimstead on Thursday, April 28, 2016 @ 02:38 PM]

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Jorgen
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Posted Wednesday, April 27, 2016 @ 03:57 PM  

Yeah Donald,
c'mon! I'll be there but I'll fly Norwegian.....

May the 4's be with you/ Jörgen

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Sunday, June 5, 2016 @ 01:30 PM  

A quick brushed coat of Dulux white all-surface primer/surfacer to help lighten the subsequent red, followed by two top coats of red Hammerite and we're good to go. There's a bit of orange peel and a few runs (plus the carcasses of some little black flies) but who cares. They're red and they keep the engine cool.

Frankly they're a bit too glossy compared with the satin finish Oratex fabric, so I may take some steel wool or something to them to flatten them down a bit, but first I must fly.

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

Bob Grimstead
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Posted Sunday, June 5, 2016 @ 01:37 PM  

Hi again Guys,

I am really pleased with these new cowlings from Eugenio.
Yes, I had to do a lot of filling and sanding, but I was quite satisfied with the final result.
Not only do they look pretty good, and nice & shiny, but they also neatly disguise my lovely big 1,776cc engine while allowing more coolng air both in and out.

Better still, and presumably because of the more gentle slope to the lower outlet, and admittedly from just a couple of flights so far, they seem to have increased the top speed at 1,500 feet in ISA from 122mph to 124 mph at 3,300rpm. Those of you who understand the dynamics will realise that this 'mere' 1.25% increase actually represents a significant decrease in drag.

Yes, Dave Bland's RF4D flies faster, but his engine and carb are both significantly bigger.

It will be interesting, now he also has a Hercules propeller, to see whether his Fournier climbs as well.

Incidentally, notice the red leading edges, finishing off my sunburst scheme. They are another layer of Oratex fabric — no heavier than paint, but providing a second protective skin.

Super Fours rule!

And red ones rule more!

Yours, Bob

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Flying and displaying Fournier RF4Ds VH-HDO and G-AWGN, building replica RF6B G-RFGB and custodian of RF6B prototype F-BPXV

dannparks
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Location: Parkside Airpark, Battle Ground, WA
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Posted Sunday, June 5, 2016 @ 05:13 PM  

Congrats, Bob, on a beautiful rebuild. It looks great and I hope it flies just as nicely.

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Dann Parks • RF4D #4051 N2188 • now flying!
Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111628310900713778468/RF4D_N2188?noredirect=1

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