Posted by Clive Watson on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 @ 01:41 PM:
I'm a new member so forgive me if this is posted in the wrong place.
I'm going to look at an RF5 within the next few days. I have owned a number of aircraft over the years, so know a few of the basics, but as my only experience of the RF5 is one flight over 30 years ago I would appreciate someone giving me a few pre-buy inspection tips. Are there any specific red flags I should be on the look out for during a flight or while on the ground?
Many thanks in anticipation.
CW
Posted by Jorgen on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 @ 03:03 PM:
Hello Clive,
wellcome and congratulation to an excellent choice in aircraft! If you have owned a number of aircraft you will know a bit about how to check the documentation of engine, prop, instruments, mag and airframe. When you fly the RF 5 (is it a RF 5 or RF 5b?) you will probably be pleasantly surprised, most handle nicely. You will feel at home, perhaps even more so if you have flown gliders before.
Fourniers are mostly wooden so one of the most important points is the draining of the tail- The fuselage sits tail low and the tailwheel-fundament is a place you don't want moisture to accumulate and cause rot. There is a technical note regarding drilling holes (and make sure they are not plugged up with dirt) behind the tailwheel to improve drainage/ventilation and prevent rot in this "weak spot".
Bring a couple of flashlights, a mat to lie down on and a telescopic mirror so you can peek through all inspection hatches (and some screwdrivers + tape to dismantle/refit the hatches with). One of Bob Grimstead's excellent advice is to shine a flashlight into the engine compartment (with the engine cowling in place) and peek from the other side at the aircooling-sealing, that will tell you a bit on whether the engine has had a sufficiently cool working environment or not.
Keep us updated and I'm sure others will give you more points to consider.
May the 4's be with you/ Jörgen
Posted by Mike-RM on Thursday, January 12, 2012 @ 05:34 PM:
Hi Clive
There are one or two things to look for. First, make sure the wing fold drag links are secure, they are the rear folding locks with the small pins. It's quite unusual, but it has been known for the wooden mounting blocks inside the wing to become detached. The metal lugs are bolted througth the end ribs and repair means opening up the wing. Not difficult for a wood specialist to fix but it would cost a bit. There should be no play in the main wing locking pins either - try moving the wing tips up and down. You can live with slight play but it would really need repair and any play gets progressively worse. Oversize pins can be fitted if you can get them or have them made.
CHeck the compressions, this should be obvious by pulling the prop through. VW engines seem to continue to run with almost no compression, but it usually means the valves need regrinding/recutting, or it could be valve adjustment. It's not a big job, taking the heads off is quite straighforward, and it happens quite regularly, typically 150-250 hours, particularly if avgas is used - the valve gaps close up. Mine went for 350 hours since replacing the heads so I think I did well. I realised there was a problem when we had an 'interesting' takeoff from a high altitude airfield and a differential compression check showed two cylinders way down - we recut the seats. The rate of climb is not exactly sparkling anyway, but the cruise is very relaxed at 90mph.
The undercarriage gas struts don't last for ever. If the angle between the main UC leg and the trailing link is less than 90 degrees (aircraft parked and empty) they are getting to the end of their life.
I don't think there are any really major problem areas, just things that need a bit of maintenance.
Best of luck.
Mike
[Edit by Mike-RM on Friday, January 13, 2012 @ 05:24 PM]
