Posted Monday, August 10, 2020 @ 03:23 AM  

I had thought I'd posted info on this previously, but it seems to have gone missing, so here's the way I did it...

It's a two-step process really.

Make four links of equal length, probably 4 cm or 5 cm, to lengthen the ruder pedal cabes and then fit them between the eye at the end of the cable and the bracket on the pedal.

Those in this photo are on my British FRF4D and came from a glider (Ka7?)

I made single links for my Australian RF4D and accepted that they would be slightly out of alignment.

You then need to make a piece of wood to go under the floor through which to bolt the brackets when you move them forwards.

They are the varnished pieces in this photo.

It's important, as well as moving the pedals your chosen 4 cm or 5 cm forward to move them about 1 cm inboard as well, otherwise they will foul the vertical reinforcing piece of spruce inside the fuselage's outer skin. Ask me how I know this?

You will just have to accept that the return springs will be a little shorter and therefore have slightly less effect.

If you feel you want the pedals at a slightly different angle, you can achieve that by making longer or shorter links.

Good luck, all you similarly long-legged Fournicators, Bob

Posted Sunday, September 27, 2020 @ 03:43 AM  

As I started to remove the springs for measuring the Monty Python quote "-And now for something completely different" came to mind. Nothing on Fourniers are oversize and when you fiddle with M4 bolts that have been in place for 53 years you have to be prepared for new challenges.

It appears the springs fitting on the firewall are bolts with silversoldered washers. Hopped in the Cub, flew over to my friend Mikael who was busy repairing the engine cowling on his Pfalz DVIII which had again cracked at the point where the slipstream of the 1800 rpm rotary engines cylinders hits.

Mikael thought the bolt were not only sheared off by a clogged-up nut during removal but might also have been fatigued. We decided to upgrade to M5, measured the length and using an angle grinder cut a slot in the bolt head for the washer.

This is the setup for soldering...

...and this is the soldering itself. Just as with any soldering process you have to heat the parts enough to melt the solder and that's were the learning curve and experience comes in.

While we were at it, Mikael shortened the springs too. You need a heavy duty cutter to do that and then you have to "persuade" the end into a suitable hook. Mikael's exceptional skills in the shop made this into a 20 min exercise before coffee. As I left he said "-Try not to break anything else (see upcoming "throttle cable"- thread...) on that airplane, OK?"

I drilled the holes in the firewall up to 5 mm and used a drill extension to avoid the gascolator on the right side. After an unnecessary trial I can safely say it's easier to fit the springs on the pedals first, then stick the bolts out from the inside and screw the nuts and washers on. Dont's forget the washers that should rather be bigger than smaller, the firewall is crushable and you need to be careful when tightening the bolts. I am very satisfied with the feeling and position of the pedals and will report back in the appropriate thread ("What kind of seat cushions do you fly with" when I have finished with the cushion and back rest.

May the 4's be with you/ Jörgen

[Edit by Jorgen on Sunday, September 27, 2020 @ 03:50 AM]

Posted Sunday, October 18, 2020 @ 10:12 PM  

Much more professional than mine.

I'm not sure whether I posted how I thn got a more reclining seat back by simply replacing the shaped fibreglass back (with its parachute recess) with a simple sheet of 10mm? plywood cut to shape.

By putting assorted spacer lengths of wood along its bottom (across the fuselage width) I could adjust its rake.

With several layers of conformal foam cushions ('Tempurfoam') I now have a safe seat that is reclined enough to help resist the increased positive Gs of aerobatics.

But now you may need the cranked control column to get full down elevator. Good luck with that, Bob