I am just finishing a 1914cc for a RF5B based off a Limbach 1700. We should be flying the new engine early spring.

specs

Thick wall 94mm piston and cylinders
std Limbach 69mm crankshaft
new case machined for Limbach starter and fuel pump.
new 040 heads (with 54.5cc cambers)
1.25-1 Empi rocker arms
Empi sump oil fliter.
7.9-1 compression ratio
pistons with dish machined (70mmx1mm)

Link to EMPI Mini sump oil fliter

http://www.empius.com/2010_catalog/empi2010_pg2.html

Helper

(Years ago, I particularly enjoyed an acknowledgement page on a doctoral thesis where the guy, as usual, thanked everyone he had ever known, and included his son, "without his help, I would have been done months earlier."

I have never seen that on a VW before and seems like a much better idea than the wire mesh "filter".

How far does that stick out below the mounting flange?

I suppose the remote filter is another possibility but it requires drilling out oil plugs etc and some extra plumbing.

That bolt in filter seems like it would be doable without modifying the engine at all.

--------------------
Ray
RF4D #4057 N-1771 Rectimo 1400cc
http://picasaweb.google.com/jb92563/FournierRF4D
http://www.touringmotorgliders.org

Thank you for the guidance

What power do you expect out of this conversion and will you be using the same Hoffman 3 position prop with same blades?
We have lots of VW shops here in Turkey, the BUG was and is still a popular car here, can any of those shops do the machining
of the case and the heads, or do I have to send them to a specialist?

Kadir

Ps. isn't the helper an absulute darling

How did that engine rebuild go?
What have you done with the carb and oil cooler?

Kadir

I should be test flying Chuck's RF5B with the new engine in about two weeks. I will let you know how it works.

Chuck is reusing the std Zenith CD150 carb. I think it is the -3 version. Also using the std Limbach/VW oil cooler.

Collin

May the 4's be with you/ Jörgen

[Edit by Jorgen on Thursday, July 28, 2011 @ 02:57 PM]

I have 6 helpers. That why I get a lot of stuff done.

Collin

What cool about Chuck's RF5B is that my Dad owned it in the '70's

Collin

As Russians have started invading the region starting with Ukraine so I have to get used to their ways as we may be next

My engine rebuild is now complete, I have increased the capacity to 1915cc using Mahle 94mm cylinders with forged
pistons. Everything is brand new except the case, crankshaft, con rods ( I even replaced the con rod bolts ) camshaft and
the accessories.

Before machining for 94mm cylinders my builder fitted the case with "case savers" and used 8mm chromoly head studs
as these are 200% stronger than the originals.

Carb and Mag are both overhauled. Starter was checked.

Exhaust was checked for cracks and polished, Eugenio has kindly supplied me a set of silent block engine mounts.

We have test run the engine, Works very smooth, the VW engine specialist that built this engine told me to run it in
with Castrol GTX synthetic motor oil for about 1 hour at varying speeds before we do any adjustments to it, than adjust
the valves while the engine is still warm. Then drain the oil completely and put in 3 liters of new Castrol GTX 10/40 or
20/40 and we will be set to go.

I have 2 questions;

1- Stromberg CD 150 Carb, do I need to change the Jet for a bigger one as someone here has suggested as the engine
capacity is now increased to 1915cc. Limbach technical paper says 1.75mm for both 1700 and 2000cc

2- The same guy that rebuilt the Mag and who suggested I change the carb jet also thought the engine seemed to be low
on compression but, that should be ok after we fully set the engine and adjust the valves as the valves may be leaking
as they are yet not adjusted and not yet seated. Does this sound right to you guys?

Kadir

http://youtu.be/o3eQTP58Kmo

For any of you who'd like to see this proud moment

Kadir